Las Tricias: The Village of Dragon Trees

There are places on La Palma you see, and places you experience. Las Tricias belongs to the second category. This hamlet in the municipality of Garafía — a handful of houses, a restaurant, a few paths — offers one of the most powerful images on the entire island: hundreds of dragon trees (Dracaena draco), their umbrella-shaped crowns hanging over the Atlantic. The oldest are several hundred years old. You walk among them on the trail to the Cuevas de Buracas — and if you know the route, you understand why those who have seen this place rarely forget it.

Las Tricias lies near the main town of Santo Domingo de Garafía in the northernmost part of La Palma. The drive along the winding roads of the north is an experience in itself: steep cliffs, deep gorges, old terraced fields.

Dragon Trees: History Written in Their Branches

The dragon tree — scientifically Dracaena draco — is the most characteristic plant of the Canary Islands. Its red resin, known as “dragon’s blood”, was a prized remedy in antiquity, said to promote wound healing and reduce fever. The trunk is thick and cylindrical; the crown consists of tufts of sword-like dark green leaves. The first branching occurs only after about ten years — counting the branches remains the only method of age estimation, though it is imprecise.

The hiking trail to the Cuevas de Buracas — ancient cave dwellings of the Benahoaritas, La Palma’s indigenous people — passes directly by the most significant specimens. The caves are carved into the cliff face and serve as a reminder that people lived here long before any Spaniard set foot on the island. The trail is free to access and of moderate difficulty; sturdy walking boots are recommended.

Camu Camu: Fusion Cuisine Beneath the Dragon Tree

In the hamlet itself, Camu Camu (open Thursday to Sunday, 11am–10pm) runs a restaurant that feels delightfully unexpected here — which is precisely what makes it unforgettable. On a terrace under an old tree with Atlantic views, they serve fusion cuisine with a strong vegan focus: grilled Garafía goat cheese with mojo rojo and mojo verde, falafel with hummus, homemade cakes. Camu Camu holds a 4.6-star rating and is considered by many connoisseurs to be the best restaurant in northern La Palma.

The goat cheese served here comes from local producers in Garafía. Holding the Queso Palmero D.O.P. designation, this cheese has won multiple awards at international cheese competitions. To take some home: buy the aged (curado) cheese at Quesería Luna de Garafía or at the Mercadillo de Puntagorda (Saturday/Sunday).

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