Playa de Nogales – Black Natural Beach in the Northeast

The wild green cliff face rises steeply behind Playa de Nogales, providing ideal wind protection. At the same time it means that from midday no sun reaches here any more. Those who want to make the most of the sunshine should set off in the early morning hours – and then enjoy one of La Palma’s most unspoilt beaches entirely for themselves.

A Beach You Have to Earn

Playa de Nogales lies north of Puntallana in the northeast of the island. It is reached via the coastal road through banana plantations. The car park is at the bottom of the steep descent — from there, a narrow, steep path leads down for around 15 minutes. Before you reach the black sand, you pass the entrance to the sea cave Cueva del Infierno.

Those who make the effort to descend are rewarded: the beach stretches about 500 metres along the coast – narrow, 20 to 30 metres wide, surrounded by cliffs and groups of rocks. At the foot of the slopes the otherwise very fine black sand is covered with rubble.

The Sunhikes video of Playa de Nogales shows the beach, the cliff face and the descent path – a good first impression before taking on the 15-minute hike.

The Window of Sunshine

Directly behind the beach a cliff face of almost 500 metres rises up – impressively imposing, but with a quirk: as it lies to the west, it casts its shadow over the entire bay as the day progresses. In winter the shadow often reaches the beach by midday; at the height of summer it stays sunny until about 2 or 3 pm. Those who benefit most are the early risers: arriving around 9 or 10 in the morning, you catch the perfect window of sunshine, share this magical place with hardly anyone, and enjoy the wild setting in complete peace.

Surfing at Playa de Nogales

Surfers value Playa de Nogales for its waves. The surf breaks along the rock edges of the bays in a way that attracts experienced wave riders – not as big as in Tazacorte, but powerful enough for a decent session. Playa de Nogales is not a regular surf spot with a school or hire service; those who want to surf bring their own board.

The Cueva del Infierno

On the descent path to Playa de Nogales, just before reaching the black sand, you pass the entrance to the Cueva del Infierno – the Cave of Hell. A lava tube extending from the cliff to the sea opens here to the coast. The cave is not regularly accessible, but the entrance is clearly visible from outside. Geologically it is interesting: a direct passage from the interior of the cliff to the Atlantic, formed when molten lava flowed through an already cooled outer shell.

Puntallana: The Village above the Beach

The car park for Playa de Nogales lies in the municipal area of Puntallana – one of the greenest villages on La Palma. The village itself sits on the plateau above the beach, surrounded by banana plantations and laurel forests. The drive from the main road LP-1 to the coastal car park passes through a landscape typical of the northeast: lushly green, with the scent of damp humus and banana leaves.

Northeast Coast: Green, Wild, Undiscovered

The northeast coast of La Palma is the roughest yet most lush side of the island. Trade wind clouds meet the mountains here first, releasing as drizzle and mist that saturates the laurel forests. The coast below is steep and barely accessible – Playa de Nogales is one of the few beaches you can reach at all. Hardly any tourists, hardly any infrastructure, hardly any comfort – but an authenticity that has disappeared from the major Canary Islands.

Bird Watching on the Northeast Coast

The northeast coast of La Palma is a paradise for birdwatchers. Where dense laurel forests, moist ravines and open Atlantic coastline interlock, unique habitats are created for endemic species. Deep in the forest the approachable La Palma chaffinch flits through the undergrowth, while at the cliffs around Playa de Nogales a completely different scene prevails: Canary Islands pipits dash low over the rocks, kestrels circle in the updrafts, and the calls of the protected red-billed choughs echo off the cliff faces. Those who venture the steep descent to the beach at dawn, while the coast is still completely still, are rewarded with a true nature concert at the cliffs.

Practical: Getting There, Equipment and Descent

The descent path to Playa de Nogales demands attention. The path is narrow, partly slippery and exposed in some places. Sturdy footwear is not a recommendation but a requirement. Those wearing sandals or flip-flops should turn back. One way the descent takes about 15 minutes; the ascent back takes a little longer. In summer, when the cliff face quickly casts shadows, an early start is recommended – those at the car park by 9 am have sun and time.

Cubo de la Galga and the Laurel Forest

A few kilometres west of Playa de Nogales a completely different world opens up: Cubo de la Galga, an ancient laurel forest, dense and green, part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve together with Los Tilos. Like a living tunnel of ferns, lianas and centuries-old trees, the circular trail winds deep into a secluded ravine.

Hiking from Puntallana: Along the Old Royal Path

From Puntallana, you can not only descend to the beach – the village also serves as a starting point for hikes along the wild northeast coast. Northward from the village centre runs the historic royal path GR-130, excellently waymarked, which winds in serpentines through original cultural landscapes and deep ravines such as the monumental Barranco de la Galga.

Playa de Nogales: A Glimpse of Local Life

Frequently Asked Questions