Franceses & Gallegos: La Palma’s Forgotten North Coast

There are places on La Palma that lie far from the well-known tourist destinations. Franceses and Gallegos are among them. The two small hamlets on the wild north coast of the municipality of Garafía are connected by the historic Camino Real, now part of the GR-130 long-distance hiking trail. Long before roads reached these remote settlements, this royal road ran through the deep ravines of the north. Those who come here seek the original side of La Palma — either on foot or in a compact rental car.

Gallegos on the ridge between ravines. — Gallegos perched on the ridge between the gorges.

Only a few people still live in the two secluded hamlets today. What remain are traditional gardens, historic houses, and a landscape that has preserved its authentic character. The typical tea-wood houses in particular give Franceses and Gallegos their unmistakable appeal.

The Tea-Wood Houses

The historic houses in Franceses and Gallegos rank among La Palma’s architectural highlights. Many roofs are covered with tejuelas, traditional wooden shingles made from the resin-rich heartwood of the Canarian pine (tea). The shingles are applied in overlapping layers, forming an extraordinarily weather-resistant roof covering. Thanks to the high resin content, the wood swells slightly when wet, sealing the roof reliably against rain and wind. Over the decades, tea wood takes on its characteristic dark brown to almost black colour, standing firm even against the damp trade winds of the north.

In northwestern La Palma, many houses still feature roofs of tea — the resin-rich heartwood of the Canarian pine. — In north-west La Palma, many houses still feature roofs made of tea wood — the resin-rich heartwood of the Canarian pine.

Hiking Through the Ravines

From Barlovento, an impressive hike leads via the Mirador La Tosca to Gallegos. Along the way, you pass through the largest contiguous dragon tree forest on La Palma. Unlike the dragon trees at Las Tricias, the stand near La Tosca feels distinctly more primeval — the path is lined with ferns and mosses.

Trail through the Barranco Franceses in the northwest of La Palma — View across La Palma’s wild north coast near El Tablado

From Gallegos, the historic Camino Real (GR-130) continues to Franceses. The 2-to-3-hour section involves crossing the deep gorge of Barranco de Franceses from rim to rim. A long, steep descent is immediately followed by a demanding uphill climb. Sure-footedness, good fitness, and sturdy footwear are essential.

Local Bars and Provisions

Franceses and Gallegos are still shaped by traditional village life today. Small víveres — typical Canarian corner-shop-cum-bars — occasionally stock drinks, simple snacks, and daily essentials. They tend to open for just a few hours in the morning and evening and often close during midday. Those planning a hike or spending the afternoon in the hamlets should bring enough water and provisions. A wider selection of restaurants and shops can be found along the LP-1 or in the surrounding towns.

Conclusion

Franceses and Gallegos are among the most unspoiled places on La Palma. Those seeking the untamed north coast, historic royal roads, and traditional villages off the tourist trail will find a landscape that has preserved its authentic character to this day.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you get to Franceses and Gallegos?

By car, both hamlets can be reached via the LP-1, where narrow roads branch off into the villages. By public transport, bus line 120 runs between Puntagorda and Barlovento. Buses stop at the main junctions along the LP-1, leaving the final stretch to be covered on foot. Hikers can also reach Franceses and Gallegos via the long-distance trail GR-130.

What makes the houses in Franceses and Gallegos special?

The historic houses with their roofs of tea-wood shingles (tejuelas) are among the finest examples of traditional architecture on La Palma. The resin-rich heartwood of the Canarian pine makes the roofs extraordinarily durable and resistant to wind and moisture.

Are there places to eat or shop?

The hamlets have only a handful of small shops and bars with limited opening hours. It’s recommended to bring enough water and provisions. Additional restaurants and shops can be found along the LP-1 or in the larger towns nearby.

This article is based on the on-the-ground knowledge of the Gequo editorial team – publishers of the Reisezeit hiking guides and operators of Sunhikes.com. Last updated: May 2026

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